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All day touring by car, stopping just outside Trichy for a view of the Rock Temple, then a dam, a local village, a sugar-making plant, school and orphanage, market. Rice, bananas and sugar cane growing in the fields. Also passed a brick factory. At the village children were carrying baby goats around like puppies. Along the road Mr. K pointed out head-stones - flat stones raised on posts to head height, where people can rest loads they are carrying on their heads. Lunch in Tanjore, then saw the Bridhashwara Temple, including inside the main temple complex. In a smaller temple we were invited inside to be blessed, get the forehead mark applied, and get touched up for contributions! (All of 1 rupee, 2.5 cents). Second largest Nandi bull in India. As we left we saw a funeral - the body on a cart decorated with flowers, presumably on the way to be cremated.

Afternoon tour by rickshaws. Gandhi museum - history of India's independence movement. Also a replica of Gandhi's house. Thirumalai Palace, then to the Meenakshi Amman Temple - a huge place. Drinks and supper at a rooftop restaurant. Biggest dhosas, about 3 feet long! Then back to the temple for the "bedroom" ceremony of Shiva. The god's statues, and those of their consorts, are taken into the bedroom for the night! Mr. K. hustled us around in the crowds, making sure we got to the best places to watch the activities. Back to the hotel, where we gave up trying to clean the bottoms of our feet, walking around the temples barefoot makes an impression!

In the evening Mr. K took us back to the temple to see the "Golden Car" ceremony. A procession of brahma bull, elephant, and the statue of the goddess on the golden carriage. Portable electric lights carried in the procession, and on the carriage, powered by a noisy generator being pulled on a cart at the back of the procession.

Up early, bags onto the bus and we walked to the dock for an 8-hour boat ride to Alleppey. Beautiful. Peaceful scenery as we cruised past villages, fishing nets, coconut palms and local boats. Stopped at a shack for lunch - rice with sauces and fish, all served on a banana leaf and eaten Indian style - with our hands. Took some Polaroid shots, they were a hit as usual. Continued, seeing a large snake boat practicing for a race tomorrow. Arrived at Alleppey soon after 5pm, met by the bus. Both went for a swim, then supper around the hotel pool. Laundry was dried by spinning from the overhead fan blades, a technique that came in handy throughout the trip.

Bus to Cochin, about 1 1/2 hours. Checked in, Tony swam, Shirley watched BBC World and got the NFL semi-final; scores for both conferences, and the soccer score for Manchester United for Malcolm. After lunch out for tour. Bus to boat, boat to Santa Cruz church (not open, but Alan wanted to see it) and St Francis church. Then back to boat and short trip to Dutch Palace and the Jewish synagogue. (17 Jews in 5 families left). Blue and white tiles from China on the floor, so shoes off. Many chandeliers. Short look at shops in the area known as Jew Street, then back to boat, to bus, to hotel. Quick change, then out again to see Kathekali, the classical dance form of Kerala. (Including a demonstration of the application of the elaborate make-up). Back to the hotel, Baskin-Robbins and biscuits for supper!

Up early and off on the bus for the trip to Ooty. After an hour or so we stopped at an outside café for coffee and ate our picnic lunch that was packed by the hotel. Another hour on the winding roads to Coonor from where we took the train to Ooty. While waiting for our train a steam engine came in - it was being used for filming. Our train is a diesel. The lower portion of the tracks is cog, but we could not use it because of landslides. Arrived at Ooty at mid-day, checked into the luxurious Holiday Inn! Walked down to St Andrews's church, which was unlocked for us by a man with a huge key. Then on down to Charing Cross and a long commercial street looking at the store windows. Then the covered market, mostly foodstuffs, very colorful. Taxi to the Savoy Hotel, a colonial bungalow-style place where we had tea. At 4:30 met Kerri and most of the group for a walk through the eucalyptus trees for an hour. On our way back we met Chris with an Indian woman who is the grandmother of a fellow Chris met at Trinity College, Cambridge. She is 87. She went to college and took politics and economics. Her parents came to Ooty in 1900 to start a law firm, which is still running. Her children and grandchildren are doctors, lawyers. Very short and in good shape for her age. She took us to see a few of the Toda native people, only about 1,100 left. Then back to the Savoy for a drink - no tonic for G & T! Some of us stayed for supper in the grand baronial dining room, then walked back to the hotel.

Lazy morning, 11am start for Mysore. Stopped at tea plantation, lookout tower, tea stop, bamboo. In two national parks, saw termite mounds, monkeys (regular and black-faced), wild elephants, a working elephant dragging a tree stump, spotted deer. Arrived in Mysore at 6:30, supper at the Park Lane Restaurant (red lights over tables to summon waiters).

Off on tour - temple and enormous Nandi bull on Chamundi Hill. Then on to the Maharajah's Palace. We then left the group and walked to the art gallery in Jaganmohan Palace. Then walked through the market, where Shirley bought a new belt (leather, less than $2). Auto-rickshaw to hotel for lunch, then out again to the railway museum. There were some interesting old carriages and engines, including a maharajah's carriage. The cows in town have had their horns painted red and parts of their body painted yellow - this is for a festival today. We were lucky, today was a festival day, so the Palace was lit up at night, we went there before heading out to the posh Lalitha Mahal Palace for supper, we were shown a couple of rooms afterwards ($750/night - huge and high ceilinged)

Drove to Bangalore for the flight to Chennai (Madras). Miles of cattle fair along the road. From Chennai we drove to Mahabalipuram and our last stop on this Explore itinerary. The room was not up to scratch, no a/c, and no hot water, supposedly fixed later.

Morning walk along the beach, checked out the Ideal Beach resort - much nicer than the Golden Sun (and cheaper!). Tried to book for a couple of nights after our stay at the Golden Sun, but they were fully booked. Managed to upgrade at the Golden Sun to a beachfront room. Said our good-byes to Kerri, who headed back to Chennai to meet the next group coming in. Walked down the beach into town. After a cold coffee and ice cream (the favorite pick-me-up drink of the trip) we went to the shore temple, Ajuna's Penance (a large bas-relief) and the Mandapa Cave temples - climbing up and down the rocks with lots of locals. Today is the last day of Pongal (a harvest festival) so everyone is out in their finery - some stunning saris. Lunch at the La Vie en Rose, a good spot to sit and watch the street below and all the activity. Back to the hotel, walked along the beach to the Ideal for supper - very slow service. Back to the room, called the electrician to fix the hot water heater, broken element, will fix tomorrow…..

Tour to Kanchipuram today, one of the main religious and cultural centers of India. Visited Varatha Temple, with its 100 pillared Marriage Hall; the 8^th century Kailasanthar Temple with its giant Nandi bull; and Ekambaresh Temple with its 2,500 o 3,500 year-old tree (depending on the book or person) and the Thousand Pillar Temple. Then to see silk weaving. On the way home stopped to see threshing rice, and at the hilltop temple at Tirukkalikundram. Climbed up the hill but the temple was closed. Back to the hotel where we changed rooms again (the part for the water heater is on order…). Kerri phoned in the evening, she had been phoning since 5pm and was told we were not back yet - visions of us in a road wreck! She has her new group and is on the overnight train trip tonight.

Shared a taxi with Catherine and John to the Five Rathas complex just south of town. Walked around the monolithic temple caves, then walked to town, looked around, cold coffee with ice cream at the Gazebo restaurant (they had to send out for the ice cream…). Checked out the good leather store and tried at two places to get e-mail - no luck. Took taxi north to the Fisherman's Cove Taj Hotel, expensive and full. Cold coffee and ice cream 20 rupees at the Gazebo, 69 rupees at the Taj! The group went to the Ideal Beach for a buffet supper and dancing around the pool.

Turned TV on at 7am to watch Clinton's State of the Union address - fell asleep in the middle! Walked down the beach to town. Post office closed for holiday, but did manage to get onto e-mail and get caught up. Lunch at Luna Magica restaurant on the beach (lots of flies) and then taxi back to hotel. Sat on the beach with the rest of the group until they left at 3:30. Lots of red bougainvillea on the beds, put there by the room boy. Read for a while, then walked to the Ideal Beach for cold coffee with ice cream, also booked us in for a couple days - now they had room! Walked back to our hotel on the beach, passing a herd of cows and calves going the other way.

Lazy start, breakfast on our balcony. Walked up the beach to the Tiger cave, passing a fishing village with boats and fish drying on the beach. A group of schoolchildren was having a picnic at the Tiger Cave. Walked back down the beach to another hotel for a snack. Then a swim in the ocean, quite rough. Tea on the balcony, and start preparing for the departure tomorrow.

Shirley did not sleep well, with a cold, so she slept in after breakfast. Tony walked to Dona Paula beach, and then took the local bus back (3 rupees). After lunch we both got haircuts at a local barbers (40 rupees plus 10 tip each) i.e. about $2.50 for both of us! Tony also splurged on a shoeshine. Took an auto-rickshaw to the Cidade de Goa hotel at Dona Paula beach and listened to a lecture by a U of York graduate student on responsible tourism. (for her Ph.D. in Sociology). Some discussion afterwards, then we had supper at the Chinese restaurant, then taxi back to our hotel.

Morning tour of Old Goa - colonial Portuguese religious sites:- Basilica of Bom Jesus with the mummified remains of St Francis Xavier, Goa's patron saint; Se Cathedral; Convent and Church of St Francis of Assisi; Archaeological Museum; St Augustine tower, and finally a handicraft store - jewelry (quite nice), carpets and souvenirs - however we did not buy anything. Then back to Panjim, to the top of the hill for a view of the town, then down to the local market where our guide bought some cough medicine for Shirley (21 rupees, 50¢). Then to the Sisters of Charity (Mother Teresa's order) orphanage and place for old destitute women. Lunch at the hotel, where we were upgraded to another room because of work in part of the hotel. Tony went out to get e-mail, took an auto-rickshaw to the Internet Café - the driver did not know where to go and he ended up at a computer training school that let him use their computer! We then hired a car and driver from Joey's taxi service for a few hours. Drove to Mapusa where we wandered around the market, bought some Cipro antibiotic, just in case, and a cloth backpack from a young boy on the street (110 rupees - $2.75). Don't need it but….. Then we drove to a number of the northern beaches - Vagator beach which was very nice; Anjung which was more of a hippie village than a beach; Calangute beach which was crowded; and finally Aquada Fort with a Taj hotel surrounding the old fort.

Bed coffee, breakfast, then Tony went for a walk and Shirley slept. We later took a taxi to Bogmalo Beach, the Park Plaza resort, for a small lunch. Tony swam in the sea and we then read books and did some postcards. This was arguably the nicest beach we saw. Same taxi back to our hotel (he had waited for us all afternoon), getting back at 6:30pm. Packed and had a room-service supper.

Up early and off by taxi to the Royal Palms Golf Club where we met Andy and played 18 holes. Unusual course with a grand clubhouse, which was being used for filming a movie. We arrived just behind 7 cars - the Minister for Kashmir played ahead of us (armed guards in the parking lot). Lunch at the club, joined by Alma. Taxi back to our hotel, stopped at the dhobi ghats - which you can see from a bridge. We saw a garbage truck, the first we have seen in India. (Garbage is thrown out on the streets, and sorted for items of use by the poorer people, eaten by the cows, and what is left is occasionally swept up and burned.)

Arrived in Udaipur, met by TCI rep and our driver for the next 5 weeks, Ragu. Driven to Fateh Prakesh Hotel, 6 suites and 3 rooms in the City Palace complex, located next to the Maharajah's residence.

Breakfast in the room, then a half-day tour of Udaipur. City Palace; Jagdish Temple (Vishnu); gardens of the maids of honor (laid out as part of a prince's dowry, originally in the middle of the jungle) with lots of fountains; craft center (where Shirley bought a shirt), then back to the hotel where we had lunch in the Gallery restaurant overlooking the Lake Palace.

After moving rooms we walked down to the lake, and up again. Had cold coffee with ice cream and watched the sun go down as the musicians played. Then to the Shiv Niwas for the sundown ceremony, bagpipes and horses.

Woke up just before 4:30 am to put TV on for the superbowl game. Watched some, slept some of the game. Denver beat Atlanta (in Miami). Slept again, then breakfast in room. Walked into town, wandered around, bought supplies, cold coffee and ice cream at a restaurant overlooking the lake. Lunch beside the Shiv Niwas pool (Tony had a swim first, very cold water), then took the one-hour boat ride around the lake, stopping at Jag Mandir. Afternoon tea at the Fateh Prakesh. Walked out to the front of the Shiv Niwas and read until the bagpipers and horses came for the evening ceremony. Skipped supper tonight. Fireworks over the Lake Palace woke us up, Tony got out just in time to see the last rocket!

Very lazy day. Breakfast in the room, then Shirley slept and Tony say outside reading. A light lunch. Supper was a special occasion - served on the floating raft anchored between the Lake Palace and the City Palace. Just the two of us, plus the waiter. A boatman ferried the food out from the hotel as we were ready (communications between the waiter and the hotel by cellphone). Appetisers of chicken tikka and vegetables cooked in a tandoori oven. Then a huge thali (A silver platter with a dozen silver dishes each containing an entrée or a dessert. Plus rice and papdams and nan bread.). Followed, of course, by cold coffee with ice cream. It was quite cool, but there were several charcoal braziers on the raft, which helped. While we were eating the maharajah and 3 guests went out to the hotel (his boat has a red light on the roof, as does the palace when he is in residence). When we got back to the hotel he was in the bar with his guests. Tony finished London today, Shirley is just 200 pages into it (we split it apart).

Breakfast in the room, then took the boat to the mainland with our luggage. Our driver, Ragu, picked us up at 9am and drove us to Dungapur where we are staying at the Udai Bilas Palace for 2 nights. Arriving soon after 11am we were taken to our suite (we were upgraded). The main room is huge, about 30' square, with 2 double beds together in one corner, plus a desk, sofa and chairs and a strange upholstered wheelchair. Then a large dressing room and a large bathroom. Walked into town, then a small lunch at the hotel. Shirley read London most of the afternoon, sitting by the lake. Tony walked back into town. Drinks at 7:30 in the African trophy room, then dinner in the Indian trophy room. One of the largest collections of trophy heads in Asia. A group of artists (British), a group from England, two Americans and a German couple - quite a varied clientele.

Off at 8:30 on the drive from Dungapur to Mt Abu, arriving at about 3pm. Two stops on the way, one when Ragu braked suddenly to avoid a dog, and the car broke (a tie-rod). A temporary fix was made with the help of locals. The next stop was in a town in the state of Gujarat for drinks, ice cream and biscuits. After we arrived at Connaught House we walked to town and the lake, where we got our shoes cleaned by a young boy. Back to the hotel for tea and beer. Then drove out to a point to watch the sunset - a cliff-top overlooking the plains. Monkeys in the surrounding trees, some people from the International Conference on Meditation (talking about music curing all ills). The sky was misty, so the sunset was not spectacular. Supper at the hotel with 3 Swiss and 2 German girls. Hot water bottles tonight! (Like many hotels, the beds are solid stone, with thin mattresses. Actually very comfortable.)

Off at 10am on tour. Drive to Achalgarh - Shiva temple at the bottom and a Jain temple with good views up about 300 steps. Then back to the main Jain complex (which did not open until 12am). Magnificent marble carvings throughout, extremely detailed. It is said that the carvers were paid in gold dust equal in weight to the shavings they generated. Bought some photos and postcards because cameras are not allowed in the temples. Driven to Nakki Lake where we had lunch - one Jain pizza and one regular pizza. (Jain pizza does not have onion or garlic on it). Plus the requisite ice cream. Back to the hotel to relax. Walked into town before supper - another set meal, all bland dishes - fine for Shirley. (Meals in the south were more interesting, and more spicy - Tony). Hot water bottles and heater again tonight, but it does not seem so cold, more overcast tonight.

Breakfast on the patio outside the room. Sunny and warm. Drive to Rohet, about 4 hours, with a short stop for drinks and vegetable and cheese pakoras. Lots of black-faced monkeys on the road (common langur). Staying at Rohet Garh. Had tea, then off on a jeep tour to local villages. Lots of antelope and Nilgai (blackbuck). The local people, Bishnoi tribe, do not kill animals. The first stop was a family house, 7 people lived there. One hut for living, one hut kitchen, and one hut for storage. Polaroids of the small child and grandfather were well received. At the second village we saw a potter at work, then wandered around the town, where there were a lot of people congregating. Apparently it was the 12^th day after someone had died, so a big get-together and probably some weddings as well. Men smoking opium, women cooking. At the third village we attended the evening opium ceremony. The milk from the opium is mixed with water. Some is given to Shiva in a small shrine, then some sugar. Then the drink is passed around the attendees, offered in the palm of the hand to the next person. There were some shocked looks from some of the tourists, but we tried it from the hand of one of the old men. (no effect, ill or otherwise). The middle of the three men in the ceremony is 80, and has been doing this daily for 50 years! The women usually chew the nut and drink water rather than drinking the mixture. Our guide is the local headmaster. He is a Brahmin, they wear a string around their bodies (over the shoulder) under their clothes. At this village we also saw a bridegroom dressed in white on his way to his wedding. A group of men around him and a group of singing women behind, with their faces covered by their saris.

Off at 9am for the journey to Jaisalmer. (About a 5 hour trip) Stopped at Pokharan Fort and then at a restaurant a few miles further on. The old buildings are of a red sandstone. (Pokhara is the site of India's infamous nuclear tests, which are often cited as one of the reasons for tourism being down this year). Had to borrow money from Ragu for lunch as we have not been able to change money at the last two hotels! Very dry country on the drive, some picturesque villages, camels, cows etc. wandering around. In the afternoon we saw tanks (getting closer to Pakistan), and a lot of camels at a waterhole. Checked in at the hotel, on a hill overlooking the ramparts of Jaisalmer. Ragu went off to his lodging in town. Had a drink, then walked into town where we bought two throw-away cameras for the camel safari, a short-sleeved shirt for Shirley, water, biscuits etc. Also read e-mail but could not send any. Shirley got "attacked" by a cow in the street - at least bumped in the stomach by its horn as it swung its head. Walked around the old city up in the fort, then back to the hotel by auto-rickshaw. Supper in the hotel, a buffet but Tony got spicy food specially made. Indian musician and a child dancer outside before and after supper. The TCI rep phoned, then came out to the hotel to meet us and confirm the safari itinerary.

Early start to a city tour. First to the lake (Garisar Tank), then dropped at the entrance to the old town, where we walked around. Good views of town from the upper floors of some buildings, went into a couple of Jain temples, into the palace, then to the town outside the walls of the fort. Visited 3 havelis (town houses of the rich merchants of old). One, a group of 5 houses owned by brothers, contained some interesting antiques. Another got bigger as it went upwards. Then back to the hotel for a drink. Mr. Singh, in charge of our camel safari, came to meet us and confirm the details of the safari - starting tomorrow. After lunch Tony walked back into town to try to send e-mail - no luck. However he bought some hard candy for the safari and 4 bhang (marijuana) cookies from the Department of Narcotics. Walked over the road from the hotel to Vyas Chhabri, a complex of marble cenotaphs belonging to the Brahmins of Jaisalmer, to get a view of the sunset on the fort. Ate a couple of the cookies as the sun set to the accompaniment of a local musician. Then back to the room to prepare for the safari. The effect of the cookies started after 1 1/2 hours. Tony kept saying he felt nothing, until he stood up! Shirley felt the effect for a number of hours, not quite "with it" but knowing what she was doing, but sometimes confused. Not a very pleasant experience. Marble beds with a thin mattress again.

Checked out of the hotel, leaving our luggage, and onto the camels. We have two camels, a guide, and a camel man. Shirley's camel, Lalu, is the smaller. The other, Papaya, carries two people most of the time, Tony and the guide, or the guide and driver when Tony decides to walk. Stopped mid-morning at Bada Bagh - royal cenotaphs, and for lunch at Ramunda where there is a Hindu temple and a well to water the camels. A little snooze, then on to the next stop, the Jain temple at Ludarva, once the capital of Jaisalmer. One of the temples had a metal tree on top. The last ride of the day took us to our campsite in the desert, the tent and table and chairs were ready, along with a jeep-drawn kitchen and several cooks and helpers. (They also looked after another couple, French, camped a little further away.) Vegetable pakoras and drinks as the sun set. After a fire was finally started, with the help of gallons of kerosene, we had our supper by kerosene lamp. Tony had spicy food, Shirley bland.

Slept solidly until hot water was delivered at 7:30am. Off before 9am. The morning stop was at a village, Hahla, where the Polaroid was put to good use. The camel drivers were very keen on getting their picture taken with their camels! The village had solar power and a satellite dish for their TVs! We walked for 40 minutes to the lunch stop (slightly saddle sore). The cook and jeep were ready for us, a hot meal under the shade of a tree, with a special spicy dish for Tony. Snoozed and got nibbled at by the local goats. Then on to Kuldhara, a deserted medieval village. Covered a large area with some interesting ruins and a step well. We then walked to our campsite in a dry riverbed. Drinks in the shade. The rep of the camel company came out to check that everything was OK. Later, as we were reading, a delegation from the cook tent came down, wanting to have their picture taken by Polaroid. We put them off until the morning because the light was not good. A stray dog and her pup wandered in and out of the campsite, the mother kept barking at imagined threats to our safety. Both got biscuits from us, and we suspect the French couple. Supper - one dish that even Tony thought was hot enough (made especially for him). Cooler and windy during the night.

Hard beds again, thin mattresses on a board. Difficult to say which is softer, these beds or the desert sand! Ragu took us downtown to the Junagarh Fort and Palace, one of the better ones we have seen. Our guide had an electrical engineering degree, but no suitable employment. After lunch we went to the Rampuria Haveli, a large house converted to a hotel. We were shown a number of rooms - all different, beautifully decorated and furnished and very clean. Had a cold coffee with ice cream, then walked back downtown, through the market area to the fort, where we got an auto-rickshaw back to the hotel. At 3:30pm Ragu picked us up to take us to the camel farm. He had never been there, so brought a friend to navigate. Interesting farm, then back to the hotel where we had just 20 minutes in the hotel museum before closing time. Could have spent much longer there, some fascinating photographs of the maharajahs. Took an auto-rickshaw to the Amber restaurant in town - non-alcoholic vegetarian. Same rickshaw back, had to wait for a train at the crossing on the main street. Everyone who could squeeze themselves, their bicycles, motorbike etc. under the barrier did so, right up until the train arrived, a fascinating scrum. A long freight train with coal from Australia.

Ragu arrived at the hotel at 10am, driving very quickly, he thought he was going to be late. Drove from Bikaner to Fort Dundlod. The first part of the trip was on very good road, recently paved and at one point some men were actually painting a white line down the middle! The last part was on very poor road, well off the beaten track. More interesting scenery and more villages as we get out of the desert area. Lunch at the hotel, explore the maze of the hotel/fort then walked around town. Met Ragu walking back, not much to the town, a well in the typical style of the region, and lots of peacocks (the national bird of India). Bright green parrots in the trees near the hotel. Put heater on in the room before going for supper. Two young girls from California and a German couple were the only other guests. After supper we walked out to town, through a small door in the massive fort gate. A wedding party was being held (wedding to take place in two days time). Men outside under a tent, women inside. We declined the men's invitation to join them to eat.

Breakfast, then walked into town to try to get our air tickets confirmed, but the local agent seemed unable to do it, said we did not need to reconfirm. Tried to get Ativan at a couple of the drug stores but they said it was not available. Decided to leave for Jaipur a day early, Ragu was happy, there is not much for him to do in Dundlod. After lunch we drove to Nawalgarh. Inside one of the large havelis the women of a wedding party decorating the brides hands with patterns drawn with henna. Walked around the town, had an extensive tour of a haveli that was built in 1902 and now is being used as a school, grades 7-12. It was in excellent condition, with many of the paintings having been restored. Then to a room above a local restaurant with the original gold and fancy decoration - this was where the maharajah and maharani used to watch dancing. Back through the local market, A young boy who was on holiday today (i.e. probably playing hooky) came with us - not really needed as Ragu seems to know the town well. Back to the hotel, read for a while. Power outage at 6:30pm. Walked into town. Two drug stores have fluorescent lights driven by generators, otherwise the town was on candles, including the hospital. A band was getting ready for the wedding party tonight. After supper we went and watched the procession. The bridegroom, in suit and tie, was on horse with a young boy in front of him. The procession was lit by fluorescent light bulbs held by boys, the power coming from a generator on a cart pulled by a donkey. Load band and singer in front, also powered from the generator. Men and one women dancing, collecting money from the crowd for the groom. Women following the procession in a group, in their best saris. The men, in general, were not dressed up. This went on around town from 8:30 to 10:30pm.

Left Dundlod and drove to Jaipur. Got a room at the Rajmahal Palace hotel - they did not have a room at first, because a wedding party that evening had a hold on a block, but after we had something to eat they found both a room and a suite - we took the suite. Ragu drove us to town were we tried to get seat assignments for the return flight. Apparently Kerri had managed to reconfirm the flight in Madras (although she had been told it could not be reconfirmed so far ahead!) but seat assignments would have to wait till the day of the flight. Got e-mail. Back to the hotel and Ragu left to find a place to stay in town. After lunch we took an auto-rickshaw downtown to get the safari films developed, got camera batteries and more books for Tony. Saw an elephant trotting down the main street, in all the busy traffic. (This was probably the one that later led the wedding procession at the hotel). We were told by the hotel manager that we could go and attend the wedding, so we went out to see the proceedings. Never did find out who was getting married, but is was certainly a big affair, about 3,000 guests. It started at 8pm with a procession into the hotel grounds. Led by a decorated elephant, a white ox pulling a cart with a band on board, 4 camels, the groom on a white horse, 4 horses following. Bands were interspersed, with their fluorescent lights and cart-mounted generators adding to the general noise. Also many kerosene lamps being carried in the parade. Fireworks were going off continuously along the parade - they were large mortar-type set along the path, highly dangerous no doubt. The groom dismounted at the entrance to the grounds, and walked to a dais, where he sat in one of the two thrones. After quite a while, during which the groom was greeting a number of people, the bride arrived. The ceremony was watched by only a small number of people. The rest of the people were busy eating, talking, listening to the bagpipers. There were three TV camera filming, with their feed going to a control center. This was the best place to see close up what was happening in the ceremony. After a short ceremony - some words and each put a light wreath over the other's head, just about all the guests went to the dais to congratulate the couple and have pictures taken with them. On 2 occasions the couple stood and bowed to guests and had pictures taken standing, the rest of the time they sat. This went on for some time. We had some soup, bread from the tandoori, and ice cream at the wedding. (There were about 20 tandoori ovens set up, busy cooking all sorts of breads, plus several buffet tables of curries). By 11:30pm most people had left, except for a group that sat with the couple as they ate a thali served on silver plates. Water to drink, no smoking and no alcohol at the wedding.

Two game drives today, 6:30-10:30am and 2:30-6:30pm. No tigers seen, however we did see lots of peacocks, spotted deer, samat, wild boar, small owls, a mongoose, parakeets, monkeys, antelope and lots of birds. Ragu joined us on the afternoon drive. Shirley slept between drives, Tony went for a walk, taking the hotel dog along. Quite cold on the morning safari.

Tony went on both game drives, Ragu and Shirley only in the afternoon. No tigers seen. Ragu picked Shirley up at 10am and met Tony at the fort. Walked up and saw the fort and a Ganesh temple inside. Very large fort, with good views out over the countryside. Afterwards went to town to try to cash a travelers cheque, but the Bank of India could not cash it! Only 8 people in the hotel tonight.

Off at 10am, drove to Bharatpur. The first 100 km took 3 hours! They were many large groups of cattle, goats, sheep, or camels being herded along the road. Apparently they were coming from Jaisalmer (600 kms away) on their way to market. After Dasua we were on the Jaipur/Agra road so it was quicker. Checked into the Laksmi Vilas hotel. Ragu phoned his boss to see if he could stay with us for another 3 days, the answer was no, get back to Udaipur ASAP to start a 24 day trip on the 25^th. So we said our good-byes and Ragu left for Jaipur tonight, then Udaipur tomorrow. We took a bicycle rickshaw to, and into, the Keoladeo Ghana National Park (a large bird sanctuary, about 400 species, including lots of storks). Back to the hotel for supper. BBC on TV!

Tony went into town to get travelers cheques cashed, successfully, and books and Kleenex, unsuccessfully. Shirley rested as she has another cold. We then took a taxi to Deeg, where we saw the Deeg palaces and fort. Back to the hotel at 2:30pm just in time for a light lunch. Tony then went out to give away a few clothes (to a woman construction worker carrying concrete on her head as the men watched!). Tea and supper in the hotel. There is a very friendly, very large black Labrador "guard" dog at the entrance to the hotel, we let him give us a hug when we go in or out!

Breakfast in bed; gave up waiting for the local rep to phone us re the tour; walked to an e-mail place, then to the Taj Mahal. Entry is free on Fridays, so we went in. The tombs downstairs are now closed, a metal grill covers the entrance. There are also a railing so you cannot touch the pillars and carved screens. Lots of people, including many school-children. After a drink we took an auto-rickshaw to a handicraft fair, but did not fancy eating there so went on the Clark's Shiraz for lunch in the top-floor restaurant, overlooking Agra and the Taj. We saw a Muslim pre-wedding celebration - music and people following the groom on a horse. The difference being that the groom's face was completely covered with a garland of flowers. Back to the hotel, no message from the tour rep so at 4pm we went out and phoned Jules Verne in London - 800 rupees ($20)! Found out the details, our tour will stay the first night in Delhi then come to Agra on the 28^th, with a tour of Agra in the afternoon. Back to the hotel, the rep phoned soon after with confirmation of these details, and that we only had to pay for 2 nights at $75/night rather than the rack rate of $140. Room service supper.

Buffet breakfast, since we now have tour coupons. Then a couple of hours buggy ride to the fort, taking a walk around inside the fort. Lunch at the nearby Taj hotel, read e-mail, and Tony swam. Lazy day! Tommy Thompson, Governor of Wisconsin, is staying at the hotel for trade talks. Welcome signs are spelled out on the marble lobby floor with colored rice. Room service supper again - we eat less this way!

Tony checked e-mail after breakfast, then we took an auto-rickshaw across the river to the tomb of Itmad-ud-Daulah. (Built for Shah Jahan's wife's parents, before the Taj Mahal was built, and possibly helped to inspire the Taj). Then by auto-rickshaw to the "Only" restaurant for lunch, and back to the hotel to wait for our group to arrive. Visited the hotel kennels, German Shepards and Golden Retrievers. The group arrived at 3pm, only 9 in total including the tour leader (Rajeesh), apparently there were several last-minute cancellations. We also have a driver, driver's assistant, and driver's brother-in-law riding in the cab. Visited the Taj, even busier than on Friday. Nevertheless an impressive sight. Met with Rajeesh in his room to get our joining instructions and briefing, the tour is "off" by a day due to the stay in Delhi on the first night. That means that at the end we will have to take a car to Delhi the day before the tour is scheduled to arrive there, so we can catch our flight. Rajeesh will arrange. Out for supper with most of the group. (Jackie and Lawrence skipped it, in a bit of a sulk over a visit to a shop. They will get used to the Indian way!)

Morning tour with Rajeesh, first to Agra Fort, then to a marble factory where they do the inlay marble work. Only one of our group bought anything, and that was a $2 purse! This will not be a good trip for Rajeesh's commission! Back to the hotel, we went out for lunch, met an Indian who was visiting from London with his wife and young daughter. Funny listening to his very British accent in India. On the way back to the hotel Shirley got her hair cur at a roadside barber. 15 rupees plus 5 tip (i.e. 50 cents!). An old rickshaw driver who had been trying to get our business stood over the barber calling out instructions continuously. We let him take us back to the hotel, although it was only a couple of hundred yards. He tried to get us to go to the market, where prices are much better than in the tourist shops, and showed us his international correspondence from satisfied customers. Today and tomorrow is the Holi festival, when people throw colors onto others. (Colors being either colored water or more commonly colored powder - green, blue, magenta etc). At the hotel we met a man from Istanbul who has been working in India for 6 of the last 18 months, consulting to a glass blowing village that has been told they can no longer use coal and now have to switch to some other non-polluting approach. He had a few colors on his face and on the 200 rupee outfit he bought especially to wear to the office today. He also talked about being on a UN committee, which investigated the pollution at Agra. They found that the industrial pollution settled on the marble at the Taj Mahal and actually protected it until the monsoons washed it off. The pollution from the trucks and auto-rickshaws is what is doing the damage. He said there was a bonfire down the street, part of Holi, and the hotel said it would be lit at 8pm. However we later met him on the street, and the time was back to 11pm, while a local told us it would be lit tomorrow! Before supper Tony took one of the Golden Retrievers from the kennel for a walk around the hotel grounds. We met the trainer who demonstrated how well trained a 9-month German Shepherd is. Chinese supper in the hotel.

Left at 6:45am, quick drive to Fatepur Sikri as there was hardly anybody on the road. Tour of Fatepur Sikri, and then we settled down to wait 3-4 hours before the driver would dare continue. He was afraid that the festival would have people out on the streets throwing colors and other things at the bus, and blocking the roads and demanding ransom. A few of us walked to a nearby local village. The driver followed us, probably to protect us. Shirley gave an old shirt and a paperback to one of the kids - he would not take the book, saying that the police would accuse him of stealing it. Bought a packet of the local cigarettes for Robbie. Finally left at 12:30pm to Bandaraz, staying at the Bhadrawati Palace. Stopped for lunch and at a sandstone carving factory - mostly for local consumption. We had top walk the last bit to the hotel since the bus cannot get up the narrow streets, and the camel carts that were supposed to meet us did not show. After getting into our rooms we walked out to the town (although the hotel manager had been telling people not to, we were prepared for Holi and willing to get colored.) Visited the Krishna temple, where we got the forehead dot and sugar from the priest. Then around the village. A young boy took us around the first part. Saw a cute puppy with a couple on the roof of a house, the dog had Holi colors on!. We got some colors thrown over us by the kids. We were invited into the boy's house, where we met his mother, father, uncle and aunt, and got some more colors from the adults. (All done in good fun) We then set off for the market, and were joined by a fellow from the hotel, probably sent out to "protect" us from the kids. Although we were fine. Walked through the market with him and some of the kids then back to the hotel. Clean up before supper, a buffet with music, dancing and some puppets while we were eating. Sat around and talked after supper, late night.

Lazy morning as some of the group went off on an optional camel ride to a nearby village. Left at 11am and drove to Jaipur, where Rajeesh will be staying with his parents for 2 nights. Lunch at a local restaurant, then checked into the Rajputana Palace Sheraton. Tour in the afternoon to the observatory and the City Palace Museum. Then a stop at a jewelry store, where we bought a ring (diamonds, rubies and sapphires). The bus left us there, and the shop drove us back to the hotel. Had supper with the three singles. (All lawyers!)

Off at 9am for tour, stopped at the Palace of the Winds for a quick photograph, then on to Amber Fort. Bought lots of small elephants for gifts (and to enjoy the buying experience - when you have bargained the kids down to practically nothing you have to buy!) Elephant ride up the hill and into the fort. On the ride we were with Jackie, 41 yr. old lawyer from Brixton. An aggressive puppet salesman kept throwing puppets up to her, and she kept throwing them back at him. After touring the fort we took jeeps back down, then visited a carpet factory and shop. Lunch where there was a museum of turbans, with examples of all the different styles. Tony helped Jackie buy a couple of Kashmir shawls, doing the bargaining for her. We were dropped off in MI road on the way back, tried to get e-mail but it appeared that our server was down. Drug store for Krack (foot cream), batteries, books. Back to hotel to clean up, then out again to an Indian movie house - unfortunately someone had promised to have tickets for Raj but did not show up. While we were waiting outside the theatre Carol gave us some Werther's Original Candies, and Tony started feeling ill. He took an auto-rickshaw back to the hotel. The manager of the theatre came out and wanted to know what we were doing waiting outside, and made Rajeesh show his ID. Needless to say Raj was very upset and after returning us to the hotel went back to the theatre. He had planned on spending the evening in the bar across the street with is friends. Shirley had supper with the lawyers, then back to the room, getting a room boy to let her in. Tony was awake, and feeling cold in a warm room. Shirley fetched a couple of lime drinks and packed both suitcases.

Tony still ill, skipped breakfast. Off at 9am for Kota, stopping at Midway (Devli) for a drink and Shirley had Veg pakora (Raj is the only other person who ate) Drove for another hour to Bundi where most walked up the hill to Bundi Fort. Tony stayed in the bus, the driver kept the engine running and the a/c on for him. Bill and James stopped at a restaurant partway up as they were also feeling queasy. The fort was opened specially for the group. From there we drove on to see the Bundi step-well, and then on to Kota for the night. Tony went to bed, slept a bit, did not go down for supper but was reading and wanted a bath run when Shirley got back - obviously feeling better. After we arrived at Kota Shirley walked to a nearby village for biscuits. She encountered a pre-wedding party - women with large covered jars in front of them being photographed and also a movie camera. Then they put the jars on their heads and led the procession (behind the standard music float and singer). At supper one of the waiters was a 20 year-old taking a hotel management course working at the hotel for 250 rupees a month, plus tips but not room and board. After supper the group went to the billiard room.

Off early (8am) for the long drive to Udaipur (long because the roads are very poor). Stopped at a Hindu temple complex, then at Chittorgarh. We ordered lunch, then went up to the fort by auto-rickshaw. Jackie, Edgar and Shirley climbed to the top of the Tower of Victory. Also went into a Hindu temple that had statues of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu - most unusual. Unfortunately Tony and the camera were not there, he is still not 100% so did not climb the tower. Back to town for lunch - nice German Shepherd at the restaurant. On to the Heritage Resort 14 miles north of Udaipur, arriving soon after 6pm. Just time to look around, clean up, and out to see the musicians, dancers, puppet show and supper. NO Star Sports on TV - therefore no Australian Grand Prix coverage tomorrow morning!

Drove into Udaipur, Shirley went with the group on the tour of the City Palace, Tony skipped it and went to get e-mail, trade books, and go to the drug store - some for us, some for others in the group. Then to artist's studio where some people bought miniature paintings on marble - Tony had been sitting in an outside café so he was enlisted to help Jackie with the bartering. She bought from one of Raj's friends. The bus then dropped us at a store where we had planned to buy some shirts, but the salesman was out for lunch and another one tried to sell them at a high price, so no sale. We had a soft-drink at a local store across the street while we waited for the bus to return from taking the rest of the group to the fountain gardens (which we had already seen). Then we took the Lake Palace boat ride and stopped for high tea at the Lake Palace Hotel (not very good high tea). The elephant tea cozies were a great hit, Shirley steered people to them in the gift shop! Back to the hotel, stopping for Raj to buy scotch for one of the couples, and diesel for the bus. Near the hotel we were stopped by a group of villagers singing and dancing (last day of Holi). They held up the bus for ransom - usually 50 rupees per person. The driver was about to pay when Raj came up and said he would give them money if they came up to the hotel. Shortly after we got back to the hotel they came up the driveway. We met them, and one of the women gave us some purple powder. After a while Raj came out and joined in the stick dance. Shirley managed to color him, and some kids that wanted to be colored. Jackie and Shirley went and sat with the women and did some dancing and clapping with them. Then time to clean up and out for supper. Puppets again tonight, Shirley assisted by pulling a string out of the mouth of one puppet. Some puppet sales - Lawrence and James. Talked till late, then prepare for tomorrow and try to get the Australian Grand Prix results.

Off at 10am, stopping at the Nagda Temples (Shiva) just below the hotel. Four women were working on the road, carrying stones and dirt in baskets on their heads. The most colorful road crew you have ever seen! Shirley carried a load with them. On to Kumbalgarh where we are staying at an old hunting lodge. Lunch, then played Carremboard (sp) with Raj. Four of us took horses to Kumbalgarh Fort (the rest walked). Long climb to the top of the fort, good view. Rode back to the hotel, and had drinks on a hill while the sun set. Dancing (2 men, 4 women) at supper. Afterwards Jackie, Raj and the two of us played the card game flash until midnight. Raj ended up with all the matchsticks.

Off at 10am on the drive to Ranakpur. Stopped in a village en-route to see a potter at work. Visited the Jain temple at Ranakpur, very detailed marble carvings similar to those at Mt Abu. On to Jodhpur in the afternoon, arriving at 6pm. Shirley, Raj and Jackie played cards at the back of the bus. After a shower, a short game of flash in Raj's suite. Drinks and supper at the huge Umad Bhawan Palace hotel, on the terrace at the back overlooking the town of Jodhpur.

Tour of the Mehrangarh Fort. Elevator up to the top, then work our way back down. Shirley bought another sandy-colored cotton travelling shirt (560 rupees). Then by bus down the hill to Jaswant Thada, cenotaph. Stopped at Khimsar for snacks, a fort and hotel there. Then on to the Karni Mata Temple (Rat temple). Hundreds of rats running around, it is good luck if they run over your (bare) feet! Then drove to Gajner Palace hotel where Shirley gave the bus boy some shirts Tony had bought and used on the trip. Quick shower, supper and entertainment. Met the driver who will be taking us all the way to Delhi tomorrow.

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