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September 1998

Formerly the glorious center of Greece`s Golden Age (461-425 BC), today Athens is the country's exciting cosmopolitan capitall, a city alive with ancient history and modern culture. Here, myth and historv converge in monuments reflecting "the glory that was Greece." Home to almost four million people, this huge metropolis is actually several small villages linked together, covering 155 square miles. The people and the city are a blend of Middle Eastern and Western cultures. Ruins in Athens cover more eras in history than can be found in almost any other city. Stop to enjoy Greek cuisine in cafes and tavernas, or browse in shops as you explore ancient Greek, Roman and Byzantine ruins near the city`s center. The Acropolis, a 512-foot-high, flattop limestone hill around which the city developed, is the site of the Parthenon, one of thc most skillfully crafted buildings of all time. Dedicated to the goddess Athena, this sacred temple embodies the Greek ideal of freedom: spiritual, intellectual and political.

Acquaint yourself with the archaeological and historic monuments that made Athens the center of the world during the Golden Age. Begin at the Acropolis, which can trace its history back to the Bronze Age (3000 BC) and the Mycenean civilization (l500 BC), when the kings of Athens occupied a place inside a ring of fortifications But it was Pericles, Athens' immortal statesman and general, who conceived his grand plan for the Acropolis in 448 BC that brought the city its greatest glory. He entrusted the project to thc sculptor Phidias who "presided over everything" and employed Athens’ greatest artists. Enter the Acropolis through the Propylaea, the sacred gates guarding the sanctuary of Athena. Here yuu can see the first use ofthe elegant Doric and more ornamented Ionic columns in tandem, as well as a stunning view of the Parthenon dedicated to the goddess Athena, the Parthenon stands on the highest point of the Acropalis and epitomizes the glory of ancient Greece. In the Erechtheion Temple, built on the part of the Acropolis that was held most sacrcd, six lovely maidens (Caryetids) are delicately carved into the columns which support the Caryatid Porch. See the graceful Athena Nike Temple, also known as the Temple of Wingless Victory because "in Athens they believe Victory will stay with them for ever because she has no wings." Explore the Museum of the Acropolis which houses hundreds of examples of statuary and carvings found on the sacred hill. Also see Mars Hill, where Saint Paul delivered the stirring sermons that converted Greece's first Christians, and Athens' most famous theaters, the beautiful Odeon of Herod Atticus and the immmse. 17,000 seat Theater of Dionysos. Then, drive by the Temple of Zeus, the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (now Greece’s House of Parliament), the modern-day University of Athens, the National Library and the Olympie Stadium, where today’s Olympics were reborn in 1896.

The Greeks chose their temple sites with great care. Taken into consideratiun were the natural beauty ofthe location and its appropriateness to the god in question. Nowhere is this more apparent than the Temple of Poseidon at windswept Cape Sounion. Begin your journey to the Cape with a leisurely drive down the Saranic coast, past the beaches of Glyfada, Vouliagmeni and Varkiza. As you approach Cape Sounion, it rises like a sheer cliff out of the sea. Homer knew it as the "sacred cape," and when Nestor describes the journey home from Troy, he mentions "Sounion, the sacred promontory of Athens." The Temple of Poseidon stands majestically on a jagged spur atop thc Cape. Gleaming white when viewed from the sea, it gave great comfort to sailors in ancient times who knew they were nearly home. Tne view from the temple is equally spectacular. Land masses to the west stand out in sharp profile: the bulk of Aegina backed by the mountains of the Peloponnese. Built in the time of Pericles, the architecture and dimensions of the building are identical to those of the Hephaisteion in the Agora of Athens. The beauty of the surviving Doric columns has inspired many poets, including Lord Byron who carved his name on one of the columns. Even great poets can't resist a bit of graffiti! Leaving the Cape, drive to a nearby restaurant for a luncheon of Greek specialties.

The State of Israel was established in 1948 as a homeland for the Jewish people. Carved out of historic Palestine, Israel lies at the eastem edge of the Mediterranean Sea. It is bordered by Egypt on the southwest, Jordan on the east, Syria on the northeast, and Lebanon on the north. Since Israei has been at war with its Arab neighbors, it has faced many major challenges. These problems include molding Jews from all corners of the earth into one nation while integrating its large Arab minority, as well as striving toward economic and social modernization without losing the values and the religious and cultural traditions that have contributed to the Zionist rebirth. Israel has a population of around 5.5 million and covers an area of 8,000 square miles. The capital is Jerusalem, but the U.S. and some other countries maintain embassies in Tel Aviv. Hebrew and Arabic are the official languages, but English is widely spoken. The three major religions practiced are Judaism, Islam and Christianity.

Known as "the jewel of the Carmel coastline" and "the pearl of the north," Haifa is Israel's third largest city and the country's largest port. This visually spectacular city ascends from the Mediterranean shoreline up the western slope of Mount Carmel. Haifa in Hebrew means beautiful shore, and the city lives up to its name.

Haifa is an industrial, commercial and educational center. Haifa University and the Technion (Israel Institute of Technology) draws Israeli students, as well as many students from other countries. The world headquarters ofthe Baha’i faith is in Haifa and its neoclassical temple made of white marble with a gold dome is surrounded by majestic Persian gardens. The Haifa Museum and several smaller museums attract many visitors. These include the National Maritime Museum, located near the port and the Mane Katz Museum on Mount Carmel.

Haifa is laid out in four major sections. The lower city near the port is both a residential and commercial area. The bay area is heavily industrial. Hadar Hacarmel, at the foot of Mount Carmel houses the shopping district, movie theaters and many restaurants. These, and other lower areas, are connected with Mount Carmel by Israel's only subway, called the Carmelit. Mount Carmel is mostly a residential area. Haifa was first mentioned in the Talmud and has since been claimed by many people. In 11OO the Crusaders conquered the city, slaughtering Arabs and Jews. The city was destroyed by the Mamluks in 1291, captured by the Turks in 1517, and fortified by the Bedouin Sheikh Dahir el Amr in 1750. Jewish settlers from North Africa and Germany came to Haifa in the 19th century. In 1933 the modern port opened with plans started by the British during their occupation, which began in 1918. During the War of Independence in 1948, the Arabs of Haifa surrendered the city to the Jewish fighters of the Haganah, or underground defense organization.

Glorious beaches and the stunning natural setting are a splendid welcome to this historic area. Ellj'ah's cave is located here, a sacred shrine for Christians, Jews and Moslems alike. The Carmelite monastic order originated on Mount Carmel, and the Carmelite monastery, dating back to the Crusades, is located above Elijah's cave. In addition to enjoying the city's natural beauty and cherished sites, visitors come here to access other historic and religious areas. Nazareth and Tiberias are conveniently reached from Haifa. Travelers also leave from here to explore the area around the Sea of Galilee, Israel's largest lake and major water supply. This tranquil glistening sea was the backdrop for many biblical stories. The area's religious heritage and breathtaking scenery have made the Sea of Galilee one of the most popular places in Israel.

Experience for yourself the historic places and stunning scenery where Jesus lived, preached and performed his miracles. Depart from Haifa into the hills toward the Sea of Galilee, and journey to Nazareth where Jesus spent the hidden years of his childhood. Explore the Basilica of the Annunciation, one of Christendom's most revered shrines and the largest church in the Middle East. It was built on the site where the Archangel Gabriel announced to Mary that she would be the mother of the Messiah. Part of the grotto where Mary lived has been built into the altar, and outstanding mosaics of the Madonna and Child cover the walls an the second fioor. Next, see the Church of Joseph, built over chambers that housed his carpentry shop. Walk through the Bazaar of Nazareth, and past the white stone fountain known as Mary's Well where Jesus and his mother drew water. Next, drive through Cana where Jesus performed his first miracle, turning water into wine, and past Tabgha, where Jesus multiplied the loaves and fishes. Imagine yourself among the crowd on the Mount of Beatitudes where he preached the Sermon on the Mount. Then, on to Capernaum, located on the shores of the Sea of Galilee and considered the center ofJesus' ministry while he was in Galilee. It was here Jesus gathered his first disciples with the words, "Follow me, and I will make you fishers of men". See the ruins of an ancient synagogue with its recently discovered mosaic floor. Then, relax and enjoy a leisurely lunch on the shores of the Sea of Galilee. After lunch, drive along the panoramic seashore to the Yardenit baptismal site where the River Jordan separates from the Sea of Galilee In this naturally scenic and symbolic setting, Greek Orthodox and Roman Catholics perform baptismal ceremonies. On the ride back to Haifa, view Mount Tabar, the traditional site of the Transfiguration where Jesus appeared to his disciples in radiant light talking with Moses and Elijah. On your return to the vessel, enjoy views of Mount Carmel and the city of Haifa.

The western coast of Israel stretches in the sun along the Mediterranean Sea, offering charming resorts and a holiday atmosphere in many of the towns situated on the sparkling turquoise shoreline. Visitors enjoy the sun-drenched climate and glorious beaches. They also come here to access the variety of significant places nearby in a country unlike any other. As the Holy Land for three of the world's major religions, Israel has known profundity and conflict throughout its history. It is the promised land of the Jews, the birthplace of Jesus, and the place from which Mohammed entered Paradise. The array of historical, archaeological and religious sites is stunning -- visually, historically and spiritually. Located about midway on the southern half of Israel's Mediterranean coast, the port ofAshdod is part ofthe country's master plan for tourism. Development in Ashdod has been slow, giving visitors a glimpse of a quieter Israeli town along the Mediterranean. The town visible today was establisbed in 1957 on what appeared to be desert sand bounded by the sea. Historically, Ashdod was the site of one of the five great Philistine cities. Modern Ashdod serves as the gateway to such historic places as Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Dead Sea and Masada. It's also a major port with a deep-water harbor that has taken much work from Haifa and caused the closure of the port at Tel Aviv. Other industries based in Ashdod include cosmetics, textile plants and a power plant which provides about half the country's supply of electricity.

Experience some of the world's most incredible scenery and historical finds as you jaurney first to the Dead Sea and then on to Masada, a mountain fort that is now a national Jewish shrine.

First, ascend the beautiful Judean Hills, passlng the timeless city of Jerusalem, then descend 3,600 feet toward the Dead Sea -- the lowest point an earth! To the north you will see Jericho, before traversing miles of desert and arid rock to arrive at the point from which the Qumran Caves are clearly visible. it was here in 1947 that a Bedouin shepherd boy discovered the famous Dead Sea Scrolls, the oldest known biblical manuscripts in the world. Departing Qumran, drive along the shores of the sea, where formations of salt rise like strange glaciers from the water's surface. After a morning of extraordinary vistas, you will have the opportunity to experience the exquisitc sensatian of floating effortlessly upon the buoyant waters of the Dead Sea. With more salt and minerals than any other body of water in the world, the Dead Sea is claimed to be a natural health and beauty spa. It is not surprising that modern spas have sprung up along the shoreline. After your rejuvenating float, enjoy lunch at a hotel overlooking the pale, still water of the Dead Sea. From here, take a short drive to Masada, the most spectacular ancient archaeological site in israel. Ascend by cable car to this mountaintop fortress, built by Herad the Great, where 950 Jewish Zealots, men, women and children, held off more than 10,000 Roman soldiers for over a year. In 73 AD, choosing suicide rather than surrender to slavery, their leader Ben Yair deliverrd his famous speech: "Let our wives die unabused, our children without knowledge of slavery .... Let us die unenslaved by our enemies, and leave this world as free men in company with our wives and children" Explore these magnificent ancient ruins, which include Herod's three-tiered palace, the synagogue, the baths, the defending walls and the water cisterns that are an engineering feat still today. The impact of these remarkable sites will remain with you for a long time.

Depart Ashdod and enjoy the scenic ride eastward, ascending the Judean Hills, along the ancient route to Jerusalem. The capital of israel, Jerusalem is famous for its timeless beauty and was once considered the center of the world. Today, it is central to three world religions and is home to both Arabs and Jews.

Jerusalem is the highly disputed capital of Israel, and perhaps the most fascinating, most beautiful and most holy city in all the world. For many years people, for a number of different and conflicting reasons, have attached a lot of importance to Jerusalem. In Hebrew it is called Yerushalayim (City of Peace), and in Arabic, Al-Quds (the Holy). Jerusalem has a population of 495,000 people and is central to three world religions. It is holy to followers ofJudaism, Christianity, and Islam, making it revered by more than one-third of the world's population. Jerusalem can be divided into three parts: the walled Old City, East Jerusalem, and the New City, which rapidly continues to grow around both. The Old City is the maln attraction for everyone: the religeous, the historian and the more casual visitor. Within its walls you will find the holiest Jewish site, the Western Wall; the third holiest Muslem site - the Haram Ash-Sharif/Temple Mount, from where Mohammed rose to heaven; and the holy Christian sites of the trial of Jesus, His crucifiction, burial and resurrection.

East Jerusalem, along with the Old City, was under Jordanian control until 1967. The Old City has Arab markets and, in East Jerusalem, you could be in any modern-day Arab town.

Ifyou step outside the Old city you will discover a vibrant, modem metropolis of a half million inhabitants. It provides a variety of good restaurants, concert halls, markets and high-quality stores, as well as quaint neighborhoods that embody an earlier simplicity. The New Cily is cleaner, more modern and less exotic, however this in where you will find some of Israel's leading museums.

Your walking tour of the Old City of Jerusalem begins at Dung Gate, also called Gate of the Moors in memory of the 16th-century North African immigrants who lived nearby. As you walk through the Old City, you will be surrounded by some of the most sacred sites in religous history. See the famous Western Wall, the holiest site in the Jewish world because it is believed to have been closest to where the Holy Ark once stood. It is known as the Wailing Wall to non-Jews because traditionally the Jews have come here to mourn the destructiun of the temple. Located outside the Temple Mount, the wall was originally built by Herod in 20 BC as part of the outer wall of the Second Temple courtyard. Then view the golden-topped Dome of the Rock, with its stunning blue and gold ceramic tiles. Built in the late 7th century, the shrine is considered the third holiest site in Islam. Next, explore the Christian Quarter of the Old City along the famous Via Dolorosa, believed by many to be the route Jesus followed as he carried his cross to Calvary. Visit the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, perched on the hill known as Golgotha (Calvana in Latin), marking the site af Jesus' crucifiction, burial and resurrection. The original church was built in the 4th-century and has been added to by various Christian sects. After a monumental morning, relax and enjoy lunch at a popular Jerusalem restaurant before proceeding toward the Mount of Olives where Jesus was arrested. Near the bottom of the Mount, visit the Church of All Nations at the beautiful Gardens of Gethsemane, the site of an ancient olive oil press yard surrounded by 1,000-year-old trees. Then journey through the Judean hills to Bethlehem, the birthp]ace of Jesus, located on the rim of the desert. Visit Manger Square and enter the renowned Church of the Nativity, built over a grotto where it is believed Jesus was born. The original church was built in 325 by Helena, the mother af Constantine. After your visit, depart Bethlehem and cross through Gilo, one of Jerusalem's new suburbs. As you wend your way through Jerusalem en route to the ship, you will pass some ofthe nation's landmarks, such as the Knesset (Israeli parliament), the Israel Museum, the Shrine of the Book and the Hebrew University.

The easternmost island of the Mediterranean, Cyprus is a sunny paradise of glittering . beaches, deep river valleys and towering mountains, peppered with lush plantations and vineyards. Cyprus is located approximately forty miles south of Turkey and sixty miles west of Syria. It is the third largest island in the Mediterranean with an area of 3,572 square miles.

Cyprus has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers and rainy winters. In the capital city of Nicosia average daytime temperatures reach a maximum of 97 degrees F (36 degrees C) with the sun shining for more than eleven hours a day in the summer. During the winter, freezing temperatures can occur in the Troodos. The average yearly rainfall is only 19 inches.

Four major physical regions characterize Cyprus: the Kyrenia Mountains in the north, the Troodos Mountains in the south, the Measure Plain between, and the coastal valleys that surround almost the entire country. The island's highest point, Olympus, is in the Troodos range and reaches a height of 6,406 feet. Copper was once plentifUl in this range, but reserves are now largely depleted. The name of the metal was actually derived from that of the island, since copper was once so significant a resource. It was mined as early as 2500 BC. The Mesaoria is the island's agricultural area, but some crops must still be irrigated. The Kyrenia range is noted for its dating from the time of the Crusades.

In addition to its natural splendor, Cyprus has archaeological treasures dating back to 7000 BC. This island nation is encircled by Middle Eastern countries, yet its culture is an equal mix of Middle Eastern and European influences. Today the island is divided into the Republic of Cyprus (Greek) in the south and the northern third occupied by the Turkish forces since 1974. In spite of the long-standing conflict between Christian Greeks and Muslim Turks, visitors are warmly welcomed by residents of both sides. Limassol is the main port on Cyprus and the largest producer of alcoholic beverages on the island. During the Third Crusade, Richard the Lionheart had himself crowned King of Cyprus and chose Limassol as the base for his army on their way to the holy land. From Limassol, visitors can access many well-preserved archaeological sites, including ancient tombs and astounding mosaics, and explore charming villages nestled into the nearby mountains.

Enjoy a change of scenery and the invigorating pine scented air as you ascend the Troodos Mountains, viewing lush vineyards and pine forests and visiting delightful old villages The remoteness of the mountains has not only helped to retain their pristine forests, but has served as a retreat since early times to monasteries and, most recently, to summer vacationers. Stop at the village of Omodos, one of the most important wine production centers on Cyprus, where the famous local dry red wine is produced. View nourishing vineyards and explore the town. See the Monastery of Stavros (Holy Cross) in the center of the town's old cobblestone square. The last monk left the monastery in 1917; today it contains old icons and other ecclesiastical objects. Omodos is also known for its embroidered quilts, tablecloths and intricate lace handiworks, produced by elderly women residents. Then proceed to the little village af Lania, a picturesque haven for resident artists. Enjoy a walking tour of the charismatic town, viewing artists at work and browsing through their collections. Cypriot artists are famous for capturing the island’s magical landscapes and changing colors. Your panoramic drive continues up past Platres, the largest mountain resort in the Troodos, famous for its alpine atmosphere and old fashioned hospitality. Cool and green mast of the summer, Platres is a]so famous for the nightingales that sing until midnight during their early-summer mating season.

Known today as the "lsland of Eternal Summer," Rhodes was considered more beautiful than the sun in antiquity. With more annual hours of sunshine than most of Greece, its mild climate, sun-drenched beaches and natural beauty have made it one of the most popular year-round vacation spots in the Mediterranean. Long considered a bridge between Europe and the East, Rhodes is the largest and most important historically of 12 islands known as the Dodecanese. Inhabited since the Stone Age, early rulers included the Minoans, Dorian Greeks and Persians. Rhodes City was once home to the Colossus, one of the ancient Seven Wonders of the World, which was destroyed in 227 BC. In 42 BC Rhodes became part of the Roman Empire; later rulers induded Arabs, Byzantines, Genoese, Venetians and the Knights of St. John before it fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. It remained part of the Ottoman Empire until the Italians took over in 1912. After World War II, the Dodecanese islands officially became part of Greece. Visitors enjoy the island's fairy-tale landscape that includes Hellenistic, Roman and Byzantine ruins; the aura of the Orient; charming, quiet villages; and a fascinating medieval town within Rhodes city.

Rhodes, like most other Greek islands, has its early history with mythology. As the story goes, Helios, the god, chose Rhodes as his bride, and bestowed upon her gift of perpetual sunshine. The gift stood the test of time the island still has 300 days of sunshine a year. In addition to the wonderful sunshine, people also associate the island with the Colossus of Rhodes. Being one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World, the Colossus of Rhodes was a huge bronze statue standing over 100 feet tall. The statue was built in 305 BC to honor the sun god, Helios, after the island successfully resisted a siege by Dimitrios Poliorcetes known as "The Besieger of Cities". This victory led directly to an era of prosperity for the island. Unfortunately, nothing remains ofthe statue itself; and even its exact position is unknown by the people of Rhodes.

The period ofthe island's history that also attracts attention is the 14th Century. At this time the Knights of St. John began their occupation. After the Muslims gained control of the Holy Land, the Knights were forced to leave and they came north to Rhodes. The Knights settled on the island for approximately two hundred years constructing a medieval fortified town. This town still stands and is the largest inhabited medieval fortifications in the world.

The Knights rule came to an end in 1522 when, in the name of the Ottoman Turks, Suleyman the Magniftcent took the island. Four hundred years of Turkish rule ensued and during this period much ofthe medieval architecture was destroyed or fell into disrepair. At this time, many of the churches were converted into Mosques and several new Mosques were built.

The 20th Century brought new invaders to Rhodes. In 1912 the Italians took over the island. Later under the order of Mussolini they began huge architectural restoration projects and much ofwhat you see today is the result of their work. The Germans took control of the island in 1943, but finally in 1945, Rhodes was liberated by the Allies and the Greek flag was hoisted in 1948.

Home of the great Minoan civilization and the mythological home of Zeus, Crete is the largest and the most rugged of the Greek Islands. Mountains in the north, snowcapped most of the year, are a breathtaking backdrop to long, sandy beaches and verdant vineyards and olive groves. In the 3rd millennium BC, the Minoans established the first urban culture in Europe and left a legacy of art and architecture that strongly influenced Greece and the Aegean islands. According to Greek mythology, Zeus grew up on the island and later Fathered Minos, the King of Crete at Knossos. Today many folk traditions are still observed on Crete, an island with its own dialect, music, dances and dress. In villages men often wear the traditional Cretan costume: baggy Cretan trousers, boots, sashes, vests and black headbands. There is something to suit everyone's taste on this panoramic island: fascinating Minoan ruins, Venetian mansions, frescoed Byzantine churches, fantastic beaches, international resorts and superb restaurants. Heraclion, one of the two main ports on the island, was once the harbor for Knossos, the most powerful Minoan center on the island.

Crete is Greece's largest and most southern island. Many would argue that it is also the most beautiful. A spectacular mountain chain runs from east to west across the island and is split into three mighty ranges: the Mt. Dikti range in the east, the Mt. Ida (also called Mt. Psiloritis) range in the center and the Lefka Ori (white mountains) in the west. The mountains are dotted with agricultural plains and plateaus sliced by numerous dramatic gorges. Long sandy beaches speckle the coastline and the east coast boasts Europe's only palm-tree forest.

As with most Greek Islands, Crete has a history of foreign occupations. The Arabs ruled from 824 until 961 AD. Byzantine troops took the Island from the Arabs only to lose it to the Venetians, who ruled for 400 years. Two hundred and thirty years of Turkish rule followed, and finally in 1898, Crete became independent.

The Capital of Crete, Iraklion, is the fifth largest city in Greece. This modern city has a population of 127,600 people. It is a dramatic city that boasts the highest average per capita income in Greece. That wealth stems largely from its position as the island's trading capital, but also from the year-round flow of visitors who flock to the ruins of Knossos. The main shopping district is located around the streets of 25th August and Dedalou. This area is approximately a 15 minute walk from the ship. Here traditional Greek shops compete with boutiques and sidewalk cafes for your patronage.

Enjoy a panoramic ride to Agios Nikolaos, the most popular resort in Crete, and see another side to this multi-faceted island. As you leave the hustle and bustle of city life behind, travel along the north coast through the beautiful countyside where tiny towns can be seen clinging to the mountainsides. Proceeding eastward, we reach the Greek Orthodox monastery of Saint George Selinaris. Its romantic setting draws many here for weddings and baptisms. Continuing on, we arrive at Elounda Bay for a breathtaking photo stop. The shimmering sands and crystalclear waters provide a beautiful frame for the surrounding islands that dot the bay. On one of the islands, Spinaloga, is a 13th-century Venetian castle where lepers were sent during the first half of this century. Arriving in Agios Nikolaos, pass by the "bottomless" lake lacated in the center of town and connected to the sea by a narrow channel. Spend some free time browsing through this "Saint Tropez" of Crete. Explore quaint shops, the picturesque harbor and the numerous open-air restaurants lining the seafront. Many of the boats you see are actually cafes where you can have a drink and enjoy the view.

Built on the shores of a glittering turquoise bay around a tiny islet covered with flowers, Kusadasi is a vacation paradise. This small Aegean town sparkles as the sun lights up the sea, and white houses shimmer like pearls on the bare brown hillsides around the harbor. Its charm is further enhanced by white minarets and shady terraces. Tourists from around the world come to enjoy the clear blue waters, golden sand, warm sunshine, lively discos and local delicacies, including a range of Turkish dishes and delicious grilled fish. They also like to browse for bargains in the town's boutiques and shops. Legend says that Kusadasi was the site of ancient Neapolis, but no prool exists to date. Byzantine ruins dating to the 13th century, believed to have been built over the ancient city of Pygela, have been found nearby dating to the 13th century. Kusadasi is an ideal spot for visiting fascinating historical sites. These include the ancient ruins of Ephesus, once inhabited by 300,000 people; a little house outside Ephesus where it is said the Virgin Mary lived and died; the tomb of St. John the Apostle; and a theater where St. Paul preached.

Built on the shores ofthe Aegean Sea, Kusadasi, which means "Bird Island", isn't really an island at all. Over recent years this former fishing village has grown into a busy resort playground extending severai miles along the seafront. Even though over the last 30 years the population has increased from 6,000 to 40,000 people, enabling Kusadasi to become one of the most visited ports along the Aegean coast, it still manages to retain some of its small-town charm. One of the focal points of the town is the ancient Mehmet Pasa Kanransarayi, which is a 17th Century defensive structure. It was originally built as a rest stop for caravan trains, however, it has been converted into a hotel and restaurant with a lovely garden courtyard. Continuing a little bit further out oftown is the Kismet hotel, owned and managed by a princess of the former Ottoman dynasty. Twenty minutes outside of Kusadasi, close to the town of Selcuk, is the ancient city of Ephesus, an excellent example of Greek/Roman architecture. Also in this vicinity are the ruins of St.John's Basilica, the religious shrine of The Virgin Mary's House, and the single remaining column of the temple of Artemis, known as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Of additional interest, just off the shore to the west of town, is the small island of Guvercia Adasi (Pigeon Island). On this island, the ruins of a small Turkish fortress can be reached by a pedestrian causeway.

Shopping

The shopping in Kusadasi is an experience not to be missed! The "bazaar area" is good for all types of souvenirs, belly-dancing costumes, camel bone boxes, Turkish delight, and T-shirts. Wide ranges of designer label copies are also available. These copies are generally good quality and can make interesting gifts, however, we highly recommend staying clear of fake perfumes! There are many shops selling good quality leather, clothing, and handbags at great prices. Jewelry shops can be found throughout the bazaar area and in the main street. Of course one ofthe best buys is a Turkish carpet! Bargaining over the price is expected in Turkey, so never accept the first price and remember that Turkish merchants will readily accept US dollars.

Mt. Athos occupies most of the Athos Peninsula and juts out into the Aegean Sea from the northeast coast of mainland Greece. Rising above the rocks and forests of the mountain are twenty Orthodox Monasteries, most ofwhich can be viewed from the sea. Cruising around the peninsula is as close as most people get to the monasteries. Men need a special permit to visit the area and women are barred completely. Ships carrying women are supposed to keep at least 1600 feet from shore! The monasteries originated in the Byzantine era and are inhabited by monks of various Orthodox religions. The area is considered to be the spiritual focus for the eastem orthodox world. At its peak, the area housed 40,000 monks. By 1970, that number had dwindled to 1,145 aging men. Today, it appears the community is reviving itself with an innux of young university educated men, and it is estimated to have about 2,000 members today. The monks have amassed an outstanding collection of priceless objects including 20,000 coins, 15,000 manuscripts and numerous icons. Some of these sacred treasures have recently been exhibited outside of the monasteries. Much of the collection still remains unseen.

A ribbon ofwater, only 38 miles long and varying in width from four miles at its widest to three quarters of a mile at its narrowest, separates the continent of Europe from the westernmost tip of Asia Minor. This strategically important strait is the Dardanelles. It leads from the Aegean Sea to the Sea of Marmara, and then through the Bosphorus strait to the Black Sea. The world's ships must pass through here to reach the grain ports of the Ukraine, the oil ports of Romania and the Caucasus region. The Gallipoli Peninsula forms the western side of the strait. Major ports along its shores are Gallipoli, Eceabat, and Canakkale. Thus, the Dardanelles is the outer gateway to a great productive area. The advantages of controlling the strait is so great that several battles have been fought over the area. During World War I a quarter of a million British, Anzak and Turkish soldiers lost their lives at the Battle of Gallipoli.

The imperial capital that has been host to three of the greatest empires of the world -- Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman -- rests majestically on the shores ofthe Bosphorus River which divides the continents of Europe and Asia. For a thousand years, Byzantium was an important center of trade and commerce while part of the Roman province ofilsia. For another thousand years, the Byzantine Empire ruled until the Ottoman Empire breached the walls in 1453. Imperial control lasted until 1923 when the empire was declared a republic. In all areas of the city, there is something to catch the eye at almost every corner. The 6th-century Hagia Sophia continues to command the skyline of the Old City; the oval Hippodrome, where the Byzantines would gather to watch chariot races and circus games, is still clearly visible today; and thousands of minarets tower above the city. Tremendous shopping awaits you in the Grand Bazaar, which provides excellent values in jewelry, handmade carpets and woodwork This exotic city becomes the favorite of many visitors as this former imperialistic masterpiece envelops them in its beauty and aura of mystery.

Istanbul's long history consists of an intricate interweaving of Greek, Byzantine, Ottoman and modern Turkish rulers which make it one of the most fascinating cities in the world. Stop at the Hippodrome, the site of Roman entertainment spectacles held during the 3rd-century AD. Later it became the scene of many dramas when Constantine the Great chose Byzantium as his new capital in 330 AD. It was here victorious emperors and generals were acclaimed, while others, including several heretical patriarchs, were executed. During the Byzantine period, it was chariot races, not gladiatorial contests, that were the principal form of entertainment in the 100,000-seat stadium Between races, clowns, dwarves, acrobats and wild animals performed for the assembled crowd. The famous Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmet Cami'i) is the city's most famous landmark. The magnificent series of domes, six slender minarets, spacious courtyard and elegant proportions make it one of the architectural wonders of the world. The name "Blue Mosque" was derived from the magnificent blue mosaic of inlaid Iznik tiles in the vaulted interior. The mosque was built on the orders of Sultan Ahmet I in 1609 to surpass the glory of the Christisn Hagia Sophia. Today you'll be able to make your own comparison. The Hagia Sophia (Church of Santa Sophia or Church of Holy Wisdom) was constructed by Emperor Justinian in the 6th-century AD and once boasted the world's largest dome prior to the construction of St. Peter's in Rome. The famous "sweating column," which Justinian rested against to cure his headaches, is one of many columns which are believed to cure specific discases. The Hagia Sophia was Christendom's most important church until Constantinople was conquered by Mehmet the Conqueror in 1453. The church was then converted into a mosque, acquiring four corner minarets, a mihrab, a mimbar and imperial Turkish tombs. Now a museum, Santa Sophia contains many extraordinary mosaics of religous figures and Byzantine emperors. Next, visit the Topkapi Saray (Topkapi Palace), both the symbolic and virtual center of the Ottoman Empire for four centuries. Its endless array of interconnecting apartments, halls, gardens and courtyards creates an initial impression of disorder but is, in fact, very logical and aesthetically pleasing. The Royal Treasury contains four rooms of jewels, including eight-pound emeralds and the 84-carat Spoonmaker diamond. Finally, stop at Istanbul's Grand Bazaar, where all things Turkish are gathered in a profusion of tiny shops and stalls.

Venture into the earliest historic manifestations of lslamic faith in Istanbul, highlighted by a rare performance of the mystical Mevlevi, also known as the Whirling Dervishes. The Mevlevi are followers of the Mevlana, a 13th-century Sufi mystic who espoused the spectacular whirling, dancing ceremony as a means to achieve union with God. Because it advocated song and dance, Sufism was condemned by orthodox Moslems and was actually outlawed for a short time by the government. To witness the Mevlevi, or Sema, ceremany is an experience of dramatic spectacle and intense spirituality. The music is a haunting, poignant sound created by the flute-like ney, which has been described as the lament of the human soul for reunion with God. The Mevlevi say it is inspired by the music of heaven. The intensity builds as the dancers progress through three stages: Knowledge of God, Awareness of God, and, finally, Union with God. During the final stage, dancers throw off their black cloaks, symbolizing the breaking of bonds with the earth. After this mesmerizing performance, relax and enjoy a typieal Turkish dinner at a traditional Istanbul restaurant located on the grounds of the mosque